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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.